HUNGRY GERALD

HG is often asked what HG’s all time favorite restaurant is. The answer is: Vincent’s (Sadly, long closed). Vincent’s was located in the gritty town of Harrison, NJ (Very close to Newark). The owner/chef was a Sicilian named, of course, Vincent (Probably Americanized for some version of “Vincenzo”). The cuisine was Italian and the portions were substantial. Vincent was a master of all elements of cookery–frying, poaching, steaming, roasting, etc.—but his mastery was matched by his restraint and insistence on the best, freshest ingredients. This was the meal HG/BSK ate scores of times when they lived in Montclair, NJ, for close to two decades: It started with two big platters (Could easily feed at least four people)—one was of the largest and most tender mussels HG ever tasted. They were bathed in a broth of mussel juice, fish stock and white wine. BSK asked Vincent where they came from. “Joisey” was the answer. The other sumptuous platter was filled with crisp fried, greaseless discs of zucchini dusted with a mix of spices. HG never saw this combination of mussels and fried zucchini in any other restaurant–a marriage made in heaven. HG/BSK drank Chianti and dipped crusty chunks of Italian bread in the mussel broth. Main dish was the ultimate linguine con vongole–tasty balance of clam broth, white wine, garlic, parsley and little neck clams. (HG still tastes it in dreams). Much too full for dessert: Grappa for HG and Vin Santo for BSK concluded the feast. HG/BSK ate many other main dishes through the years but never skipped the mussels and zucchini.

A cascade of family and culinary happiness. HG’s daughter, Victoria, the beautiful New York restaurateur (Shukette, Shuka, Cookshop, Vic’s, Rosie’s) came to HG /BSK’s Central Falls,RI, loft for a brief visit. She was joined for dinner by HG/BSK’s gifted daughter, Lesley R. and her brilliant husband, Profesore Massimo R. Victoria brought a vivid group of dips from Shukette, the innovative Middle Eastern/Mediterranean restaurant (Plus, for dipping purposes, an array of spectacular breads). Massimo brought big, briny oysters–and shucked them perfectly. Lesley brought the ultimate Babka (Baked local) for breakfast the next morning. Dinner was an extravaganza–oysters followed by dips and breads followed by a hake, potato, red pepper, tomatoes stew in fish broth. Much food. Much culinary fireworks. Following HG’s traditional dessert of French chestnut puree and whipped cream, there were chocolates containing flavored grappa. Wines that accompanied the food were Gruet, Muscadet and Chianti. (HG writes this after a  Babka and cafe au lait breakfast. Babka is a home run of a pastry).

HG is a very lucky old chap–married for 60 years (and still in love). Yes, wife BSK is wondrous–superlative caretaker, financial manager, artist, photographer, potter–talents and abilities galore. HG is 94 and this advanced age is due to BSK’s devoted care. And, BSK is a top flight home cook making every dinner a happy feast. Witness last night’s meal–broiled salmon, seasonal asparagus, sheet pan Prince Edward Island potato slices. Invariably, salmon (in restaurants and dinner parties is overcooked and tasteless. Raoul’s in Greenwich Village gets it right. And, so does BSK–lush medium rare salmon with tasty, silken flakes. (it gets a good covering of herbs and spices before going under the broiler). BSK follows the counsel of Eric Ripert of New York’s Le Bernardin–remove fish from heat while it’s still underdone–residual heat will continue the cooking giving the fish the correct texture and taste. BSK’s asparagus are steamed briefly, buttered and salted. The potatoes come from PEI and have a unique mineral taste. The peled spuds are cut into thin spheres (much like Sammy’s Roumanian), sprinkled with olive oil, salt and pepper and cooked in the oven on a sheet pan. Better than any French fries. Lucky, lucky HG.

So, Sammy’s Roumanian is reopening on the Lower East Side. Schmaltz, vodka, garlic tenderloin steaks, chopped liver.  HG and Jewish fressers rejoice. Cardiologists frown. HG wants the LES comebacks to continue–they are much missed by HG. The two culinary wonders that HG recalls wistfully are “Dairy”–Rappaport’s on Second Avenue in the former Yiddish theater neighborhood and the large Ratner’s on Delancey. In HG’s publicist days, HG ate often at Rappaport’s with journalists. (A particular favorite with the New York Post). Great blintzes, noodles with pot cheese; warmed (not toasted)  bialys. At Ratner’s, HG ate alone or with a variety of eccentric PR clients. Favorite dishes for HG were Nova smoked salmon and cream cheese on an onion roll (“pletzel”) and kasha varnishkes smothered in mushrooms and onions with sour cream on the side.  An odd client only ate mashed potatoes with fried onions–the skinny guy would eat three or four huge helpings. The portions were family style –meant to feed a table of four healthy eaters. Two cheese Danish for dessert. Never gained an ounce, Go figure.
                                                                                             

HG spotted a Melissa Clark (NY Times) recipe that seemed interesting for a wintry dinner—a soup/stew of cannellini beans, garbanzo beans, chicken stock, canned San Marzano tomatoes, and much garlic. HG tried to cook it but sous chef BSK took over midway. BSK served big bowls of the  mix and dusted them with parmesan and Spanish pimenton. Looked great. Alas. Because of throat problems caused by cancer surgery 32 years ago, the dish caused HG to choke and cough. Inedible. BSK eased HG’s hunger with Fearless Fish Market whipped cream cheese on lightly toasted potato bread.(Old guy ate every slice without distress). HG suggested that the tomato/bean dish be thrown out. BSK grew up with a “Waste Not” philosophy. BSK added chicken stock to the mix,and using the immersion blender created a silky, smooth, spicy soup. HG had three big hot bowls of the soup for lunch today without mishap. Warmed body and spirits. Thanks, wonderful, thrifty BSK.

Sammy’s Roumanian, where schmaltz (chicken fat) gilded everything from steaks to chopped liver and  eggplant salad, was HG’s favorite New York restaurant. There was an abundance of garlic enhancing the food and ice enclosed bottles of vodka on every table  (plus pitchers of schmaltz). Located on the Lower East Side,(Corner of Delancey and Christie), Pete Wells (NY Times) called it “the most wonderful terrible restaurant in New  York.”.  It was in your face Jewish. Loud,raucous, drunken. Jews danced between courses to Yiddish tunes from a piano player.   As Wells put it in a 2014 review: “Sammy’s is a permanent underground bar mitzvah where Gentîles can act like Jews and Jews can act like themselves.”  BSK went once and hated it. HG went often with SJ, the late beloved Adam Schlesinger, and male frênds and business colleagues.     Sammy’s closed three years ago. HG was tearful as a part of HG ‘s New York disappeared. HG is 94.  What’s left of the city’s old time culinary Jewishness? Some dairy restaurants, an eatery in the jewelry district –and stalwarts Katz’s, Zabar’s, Barney Greengrass, Russ &  Daughters, Murray’s. And, at 94, HG can’t last forever…But wait!!!  It was recently reported that Sammy’s will live again! Sammy’s owners have leased space on Stanton Street in the Lower East Side and promise an unchanged schmaltz heaven, frozen vodka fresser paradise. It will open soon. HG hopes to,be alive to eat, drink and exaggerate his inherent Jewishness.                                                                                      

Sun poured into Lesley R.’s Riverside, RI, home (her husband, Massimo, is in Paris lecturing and attending to scholarly duties–returns to Rhody tomorrow night). So, HG/BSK were gifted daughter’s early dinner guests. While food was prepared HG drank a sweet and dry vermouth/ grapefruit bitters cocktail while watching the sun send shafts of light over the expansive water views. HG sipped a glass of white wine while enjoying the appetizer of deviled eggs topped with Tobiko and Trout Roe. Fabulous bow to Easter. HG sipped red wine with Lesley’s extraordinary asparagus and leek risotto. Lesley purees the cooked asparagus stems and leek leaves before adding these ingredients to the rice (Asparagus tips adorn the top of the risotto). Nice touch. HG finished a last glass of red wine with a dessert of handmade pieces of dark chocolate enclosing creamy peanut butter. Another delightful meal Chez Lesley R.

BSK created two nights of happy dinners with one night of cooking and simmering. This was one of HG’s all time favorites—Escarole soup with cannellini beans (first experienced at Frankies Spuntino Restaurant in Brooklyn). BSK sauteed chopped carrots, onion, garlic and celery in olive oil (plus a later removed bay leaf). When softened, added chicken broth, pancetta and cannellini beans (Goya’s canned beans are the best). When it came to a boil, BSK turned the heat down and added chopped escarole (it was chopped to make the leafy vegetable easy to swallow) and simmered until soft. Steaming bowls got a dusting of parmesan, salt and pepper, and a dash of olive oil. (heaven in a bowl). For some reason, it is hard to find escarole in supermarkets. When HG/BSK lived in New Mexico, next door neighbor was Gary Gundersen, best organic farmer in New Mexico. Gary always grew a big crop of escarole (among many other greens). HG would walk to the nearby fence line and pick up a fresh from the soil head of escarole. Yum!!

Yotam Ottolenghi, the Israeli/English chef/restaurateur/grocer/cookbook author (and occasional NY \Times columnist) is the source of wonderful Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Israeli, Palestinian dishes. His recipes never disappoint HG/BSK. Last night, BSK cooked his variation of Greek “Moussaka”—“Eggplant,Lamb and Yogurt Casserole”. It was one of the best things HG ever ate–many layers of flavors. Meaty. Spicy. Creamy. Piquant. (Find the recipe on  NYT Cooking). HG began HG’s job as sous chef under BSK’s command. HG cut many, many thin slices of garlic.  Peeled and cut cubes of eggplant. HG received a tongue lashing from chef BSK –HG’S eggplant wasn’t cut in uniform one inch forms. (BSK’s demands are similar to those of  the late Henri Soule, the martinet owner and cuisine boss of New York’s Le Pavillon–long closed–for decades the best restaurant in the city). HG promises to do better and escape BSK wrath.